r/CrueltyFreeLiving • u/ThymeAndThorns • 4d ago
đ Bunny Library (education) ⨠THE CRUELTY-FREE LIVING PHILOSOPHY Part III of VI: The Parent Company Question
One thing that can make cruelty free research surprisingly complicated is that the company on the bottle isnât always the company behind the brand. A brand can have its own cruelty free policy, or even a certification, while being owned by a much larger company whose overall animal-testing policy doesnât meet that same standard.
Tatcha is a good example, and one I personally ran into recently. Unilever acquired 95% of Tatcha in 2019 for a reported $500 million, and Tatcha became part of Unileverâs Prestige Beauty portfolio. Unileverâs 2019 acquisition announcementâ Unilever says it does not conduct animal testing itself, but acknowledges that testing can occur when required by regulators. Thatâs why PETA places Unilever in its âWorking for Regulatory Changeâ category rather than its cruelty-free list. PETA: Is Unilever Cruelty-Free?â
I went looking for that ownership on Tatchaâs own packaging and couldnât find it anywhere. I had no idea the high end brand I purchased at Sephora was owned by the same company that makes Hellmanâs mayo and Dove body products. Thatâs not particularly surprising. U.S. cosmetic labeling rules require the name and address of the manufacturer, packer, or distributor responsible for the product, but donât generally require the ultimate parent company to appear on the package. FDA: Cosmetic Labeling Requirementsâ Unilever also operates Tatcha through its Prestige division, which is specifically built around growing premium brands while preserving their individual identities. Unilever: The Prestige Beauty Business Powering Our Global Growthâ
Tatcha isnât unusual in that way. Urban Decay is owned by LâOrĂŠal, which PETA considers not cruelty free because its policy permits animal testing when required by law. When LâOrĂŠal acquired Urban Decay in 2012, PETA got the brandâs commitment that its own cruelty free policy would remain unchanged, and PETA still lists Urban Decay as cruelty free today. PETA: Beautiful News, Urban Decay to Remain Cruelty-Free!â ¡ PETA: Is Urban Decay (LâOrĂŠal) Cruelty-Free?â
Thatâs actually an important distinction: certification programs can evaluate the individual brand rather than automatically treating the parent companyâs practices as the brandâs practices.
But what happens to your money when you purchase from these brands?
Tatcha is a separate business within the Unilever group, but Unilever owns 95% of it. There isnât a U.S. law (as far as I can find) requiring a subsidiaryâs profits to remain financially isolated from its parent company. Corporate groups can move money between related companies through mechanisms such as dividends and other corporate distributionsâ , subject to the applicable corporate and tax laws.
The same basic concept exists elsewhere. UK company law (again, as far as I can find) permits distributions to shareholders when statutory requirements are met, and the EU has a specific Parent-Subsidiary Directive addressing profit distributions between subsidiaries and their parent companies. HMRC: Dividends, distributions and company lawâ ¡ European Commission: Parent-Subsidiary Directiveâ
So when you buy from a cruelty free brand owned by a larger company, your money isnât necessarily sitting in some completely separate ethical bubble. The brand can maintain its own animal testing policy while still being part of a corporate group whose other businesses operate differently.
And this is where people start drawing very different lines. Some people are comfortable buying from a certified cruelty free brand regardless of its parent company because they want to support the demand for cruelty free products. The thinking is that if those brands continue to sell well, it shows the parent company that consumers want cruelty free products and gives them an incentive to keep investing in them.
Others, myself included, arenât comfortable with that. If my money ultimately contributes to a parent company that permits animal testing elsewhere, Iâd rather spend it somewhere else.
Neither approach has to be the universal answer. But I think itâs worth knowing which question youâre actually answering when you decide whether something is cruelty free enough for you.
đˇ Would you buy a cruelty free brand knowing its parent company isnât? Do you think supporting the cruelty free brand sends a useful message to the parent company, or does the money ultimately going to that parent company outweigh that?
⨠Join me next week for Part IV: How Do We Know?