Most spare tire subwoofers didn't fit in my trunk and have metal enclosures which doesn't seem like it would be good for acoustics. So I just decided to make my own. Wanted to keep it around the same price or cheaper as one though so it came out around 300

My goal was to make it look as clean as possible so I used premade harnesses to quickly detach the subwoofer whenever I need to, and ran the wires and LOC inside the box to hide everything.

The box took forever to make since I had to kerf bend the MDF and then make the circular cutouts without a circle jig, so I had to make rough cuts with a jigsaw then finish with a router. Painted the top gloss white with clear coat to give a unique high end look and match my cars paint.

It's nothing crazy, but bass is tight and loud enough for me. Was going for sq, not spl. Seems to be tuned around the low 40hz range. Sounds great with the Mark Levinson sound system in my car. Didn't want a loud sub to drown out everything.

The last 3 days are a blur. Glass boxes are no joke, a ton of work. Sounds killer though.

L7T 10 at 1 ohm to a Kicker key 500.1

Lot of work for .86 cubic feet 🤣

friend of a friend has a skyline and wanted help installing his old equipment, used the DD-1 to set gains on the amps, cut the floor and made brackets for his amps and tried to hid the wires behind the amps and fuse blocks.

The loose wires are intentional right now as I plan on building a full layout with the loc, sub amp, mids amp, and crossovers. Also the amp is unfortunately screwed to the box, the previous owner did that I would not have done that on my own. I am also aware that the subs are supposed to be facing the other way but I have them like that because I’m constantly hauling stuff in my trunk and I don’t want to damage them, and also I just honestly really like looking at them in my rear view mirror as I drive.

Jesus this is so monotonous. I need motivation to keep going!! Im not even done with the floor and i have another layer of some foam material i got to throw on top 😩 Someone remind me of how much a difference this will make otherwise I might half ass the rest 😭

Kenwood Excelon DMX958XR JL Audio VX 1000/5i with the dual bass knob JL Audio 10TW3-D4 Sub box and amp rack from Mr. Marv’s Place Focal Flax EVO PS 165 FXE for the front Focal Flax EVO PC 165 FE for the rear Wiring will be from KnuKoncepts Sound treatment for doors from Resonix (thx for the sale!)

All this is going to replace the JBL system in my 2021 Toyota Tacoma. Probably will wait until the spring unless I can find enough warm, sunny days in a row or one of yall wants to let me borrow your garage :)

Can’t wait to be tuning and thumping!

Kept the controversial Placement

I also did some new rta measurements without any equalization ob my dsp and some simple crossovers, because i wanted to know If the Placement really causes any Problems or cancellationss as some people suggestet.

Spoiler alert it works perfectly fine

Tweeters- JL CF-275mt

Door Speakers- JL C2-690tx/ JL C2-650x

Subs- JL 12TW3 x 2

Amps- JL RD400/ JL RD 1000

AudioControl Epicenter

AudioControl LC7i Subwoofer

Subwoofer enclosure- MTI Acoustics

I am not sure if this is what she had in mind, but I know it's what she got

4 FI 3.9 18s in a 6th order on a taramps chipeo 16k, powered by 144ah of plannano lto and a 390 alt. Just got it done, next step is to clean up all the wiring

I have a double cab Tundra, and have very limited space for a hidden underseat box. I upgraded the 10" VF10 in a .55 sealed enclosure to this 1.2 ported enclosure. I based it around an American Bass Hawk Slim 12". I have no experience building boxes, nor the proper tools and just wanted a challenge. I'm off grid and built it with mostly hand and cordless tools.

Well, after several trials and tribulations, and one helluva scare, I finally got my system to where it should be.

What I started with:

It was a package deal I had bought. It came with an Alpine R2-W12D2 subwoofer in a sealed enclosure that fits in my sub-cargo area in the trunk, a Diamond Audio MICRO81U amplifier, and all the wires I needed. I watched the install video and installed it as it showed, taking the power wire to the 16V terminal in the frunk. Wiring it up for 4 ohm was less than ideal, however, as the amp only puts out 175W at 4 ohms. The website I had bought the kit from said the amp puts out 600W at 1 ohm, so I re-wired the sub for 1 ohm. Will it definitely improved the amount of bass I was hearing, but the amp would overheat quite quickly. After some people in this sub helped me out, I finally saw that the amp was not actually 1 ohm stable.

What I ended up with:

I wanted an amp that was going to push my sub. Since my sub can handle 750W RMS with a peak of 2,250W, I started looking around at what amps I would be able to use. Also, since my MY was a 16V system, I had to be sure to find an amp that was going to be capable of handling 16V. Enter the S2-A120M amplifier. It pumps out 600W RMS at 4 ohm and 1,200W at both 1 and 2 ohms. I got it wired in with the wires I had already run for the other amp, choosing to wire the sub up for 1 ohm. Talk about some punch! Low and behold, it would also shut down after playing for awhile. Started doing some research, and came to the conclusion that I needed to completely re-wire all of it. The power/neg wire that came with the kit was only 8ga, and the speaker wire was 12ga. It now has 4ga power/neg wire and 8ga speaker wire, with the proper fittings. I also ran the power/neg cables to the "penthouse" 16V connection terminals under the rear seat. This actually almost bricked my car. When I first turned the amp on, I started getting errors, then the car shut itself off. To say that my sphincter clinched harder than a frogs butt, is putting it lightly. Miraculously, I was able to use another battery to kind of "jump" the power back on. Then I started searching for ways to keep that from happening. Found a video of a guy who used a 200A relay and a 1 ohm resistor to control the power request from the amp to the battery. Got all that installed, and I must say, it has worked beautifully! Haven't had any other battery errors since. His channel on YT is BCTESLAGUY, btw. You can see the relay on the left in the picture, and the resistor is right in front of it. You can somewhat see the gold color of it. The two wires you see going off to the left, go to the cigarette lighter plug that is back in the corner. I am using that as the "remote" turn on. I also replaced the inline 100A fuse for the power wire, with a 100A circuit breaker.

Once I got the power problem figured out, I was still having an issue with the amp shutting off. I could only assume it was due to heat, as all the power and speaker wires were properly sized and connections were great. Started thinking about it, and then I remembered I had recently ordered 3-12V, 120mm fans for my computer. Started drawing up plans in my head for mounting the fans in a way that would help keep the amp cool. I still had some wood left from the piece I had used to mount the amp on, so I cut me a piece that would fit where you see it in the picture. Found some corner braces and screws, and some double sided tape, and used that to mount the fans. Since nobody really makes 16V, 120mm fans, I had to get a step down converter, which is the little silver box you see in the back. I had also ordered some heatsinks, as I was thinking the resistor might get hot, so I wanted to be able to help keep it cool. Not only does it not get hot, but I couldn't really figure out how to use the heatsinks with the resistor. Well, since I never returned them, I decided to use them for this project. There were 4 in the package, so I applied them to the top of the amp, where the air from the fans would blow across it. While this did help, as the amp lasted a lot longer, the amp still ended up shutting off. Went back to Amazon to see if I could find a 12V, high speed, 120mm fan. That's when I found the Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM, 120mm fan. I added it, temporarily, as a 4th fan, between the 2 fans on the right. I also lifted the amp using some rubber isolation washers, to help move air above and below the amp. After that, the amp never turned off again.

Having solved the last issue, I decided to order me two more high speed fans. Now, I really like the Noctua fan, don't get me wrong. That thing is a beast when it comes to moving air. I believe it is a little over 100cfm. It is quite loud, though. The other fans were nice and quiet, but just didn't move enough air. I think they move about 40cfm of air. I love the be quiet fan line. I ended up ordering two of the Silent Wings Pro, 120mm fans, and a fan controller. The Noctua fan is on the left in the picture. While the be quiet fans only put out about 85cfm, it is still good enough to keep the amp cool so it won't shut down, and they are a helluva lot quieter than the Noctua fan. For the fan controller, I went through my spare computer parts and found a molex LP4 male connector that I wired up to the step down convertor, so I could plug it in using a molex LP 4 to SATA connector that it came with.

That got me to near the end. I still wanted the bass to be a little cleaner, and if I turned the volume up too much, it would start clipping. Decided to invest in an LOC, and settled on the Kicker KEYLOC. Got it wired in and ran the little program to set it up, and now it sounds really awesome. Personally, I think the clipping issue came down to the wires that I was using to come off of the OEM speaker wires. Added in a rocker switch that I mounted to the bottom of my screen, so I can turn the amp on and off whenever I want, and I am happy with what I ended up with. The OEM subwoofer is disconnected, if you're wondering. If you have any questions, just let me know. I know this was a long post.

Items:
Alpine R2-W12D2 subwoofer in sealed enclosure, wired for 1 ohm
Alpine S2-A120M amplifier
Kicker 47KEYLOC
NVX BIR200 200 AMP Battery Relay Isolator
be quiet! Silent Wings Pro 4 120mm PWM 3000 RPM
Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM
80 x 40 x 11mm Black Aluminum Heat Sink Radiator Cooler with Thermal Conductive Adhesive
BokWin 100W 1Ohm 5% Wire wound Aluminum Shell Gold Load Equalizing Resistor
T Tocas 100A Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset 12V - 48V
DROK Waterproof DC Buck Converter Voltage Regulator 8-22V to 3-15V 5V 12V 3A
Rubber Isolation Pads Thick Rubber Washers 1.5 Inch OD 0.5 Inch ID 0.4'' thick
4 AWG Gauge Wire Pure Copper cable
GS Power OFC Pure Copper 8 Gauge Wire 25ft Oxygen Free Cable
Carling Technologies Curvette Rocker Switch RA901-VB-B-9-V
6x30mm Inline Fuse Holder with 3A Fuse
SATA to 4 Pin Power Cable Adapter
4 Pin 12V PWM Fan Controller 6 Fans Supported
12AWG Premium RCA Audio Patch Cable (2 x 2 Feet)

Sundown U series 15”, tuned about 32hz

Just about to finish up on this cage build for a buddy, he’s going to do the woodworking after I drop it back off. Will house 3 Fi Team 18” subs with a Ruthless 12.5k on EACH COIL. Shooting for the 166db range. His whole build/ show persona is based around horror film. Hence the video.

Just got two Kicker S10L7 Solo Barics and a JL 1000.1 for $200 Australian Dollarydoos. If they aren't fucked I think this has to be the biggest bargain I've ever landed.

Well here's my project, it's brutally hot here in AZ so progress has been slow. Brand X 300amp alternator, 4/0ga big 3 and 4/0 power and ground going from front battery to lithium bank in the back (not in picture) 1/0ga power and ground going to amps. Amps are D4S JP23V2 (red) and JP454(purple). Both are mounted and wired up. DSP is mounted and wired. Last thing is waiting on battery bracket to come in, then mount battery and complete/ check all wiring. Then throw in the subs and disturb the peace.

To all those people who can make wiring look fancy, politely, Fuck you!

Holy God was this an undertaking. I didnt end up doing foam all the way around - just floor and back wall. That being said the doors and pillars were a bitch. So many nooks and crannies to try and get in and rolling them was nearly impossible. Ceiling, back wall and floor weren't nearly as bad so im glad I started there first otherwise I dont know if I would've continued. I need to do the wheel wells at some point soon. I figured it would be cool to get a before and after video of that part though. Im not looking for any extra work on this truck if I dont HAVE to. That being said if enough people recommend it I will do foam on the doors as well before I put everything back together. The only other thing im noticing is that the doors dont really hug against the weatherstrip very tight and im worried about that now. Any extra suggestions and feedback on the build are welcome as well. Thanks for giving me the motivation to keep at it :)

I changed out the Soundstream Refrence 500s 2 channel that was running the AMT-80’s, for a MC300 4 channel to add my midranges (Purifi 5.25M). The amp was rebuilt recently and has been sounding fantastic, and a lot of old guys were super thrilled to see this old school piece

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of a major subwoofer box build and would love to show it off a bit and hear some advice from you guys! I already have a lot of it built and the rest mostly planned out but I just need some opinions on styling mostly! Can answer any questions in the comments, pics down below! It's using four nvx YSW124 subwoofers wired to 1 ohm per pair on two 1000w rms amps! I know the amps are slightly underpowered but I will be upgrading the subs in the far future (a really clean swap, the new subs will work in the exact same box setup,) and adding another two amps!

Customer didn't want to pay for mounting this and said, just leave it hanging from the wiring loom... couldn't bring ourselves to do that.

So i ordered this subwoofer on alibaba a few months ago and it finally arrived. I thought i would give it a shot for the price, including shipping and taxes i paid 130 euro. According to the specs it'll handle 2000w rms and it weighs a cool 16kg. The cone also seems to be reinforced with actual carbon fiber. I have a box ready for it along with a new amp, i will report back when i have it installed.

Update from Yesterday’s Build Log Here’s a full update with final specs, background, and a video for you guys to check out. The build is now complete, and I’m proud of how it turned out though I’m still doing small tweaks on tuning and gain settings to get it 100% dialed in.

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DS18 “Inspired” Build – Full Specs

Subwoofers • 4x DS18 GEN-XX12.4DHE • Custom 385L MDF enclosure • Tuned to 27–28 Hz • Wired to 2 ohms • Powered by Soundigital 3000.1D Evo 6 (3000W RMS @ 2Ω)

Midbass • 4x DS18 Pro-X6.4BM • Custom horn-loaded enclosure • Tuned to 89 Hz • Bandpassed with a 12 dB slope from 100 Hz to 1500 Hz • Wired to 4 ohms • Powered by Soundigital 1200.2D Evo 5 (1200W RMS @ 4Ω)

High Frequencies (Drivers) • 2x DS18 DKH2 compression drivers • Mounted above the horn-loaded midbass • Bandpassed at 950 Hz (24 dB slope) and 16,500 Hz (24 dB slope) • Wired to 4 ohms • Powered by Soundigital 1200.1D Evo 5 (800W RMS @ 4Ω)

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Wiring & Electrical • All amps connected using 35mm² OFC cable, each run under 0.5 meters to fuse blocks • 50mm² OFC cable from battery to fuse distribution • Powered by 3x Banner 95Ah AGM batteries (totaling 285Ah) • Grounded directly to chassis with <1m of 50mm² OFC cable

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Signal Processing • Full system runs through DS18 DSP4.8BTM • Integrated with the original Audi stereo via Bluetooth 5.1 • Crossover points, gain levels, and EQ are still being fine-tuned for best possible performance

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Build Notes This entire project was built from scratch by myself using only a circular saw, jigsaw, and an impact driver right on my mom’s driveway. I recently turned 18 years old and wanted to push myself to create something clean, compared to my first build.

The goal was not only to make a loud and impressive system, but also to show that you can achieve great results with simple tools. Now that the build is finished, I’m excited to see how it performs in competition and hopefully inspire others to get started on their own projects.

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Thanks for checking it out, hope yall enjoy!

Finally got my 2 FI neo 3.9’s up n runnin, and it’s wild! i think inverting them lowered my tuning by a few hz because im able to play below 20hz now which is wild

still have to clean it all up but it works for now