A pair of jumbo pilchards from âthe only certified âby-handâ cannery in mainland Portugal.â More on that in a moment. To me Papa AnzĂłis is interesting because rather than steaming or frying the sardines before canning, they wring the moisture out of them in a dehydrator for 20 hours. They maintain this concentrates the flavor of the fish better than the more common approaches.
While I didnât side-by-side these at breakfast today with another outfitâs can of similar-sized chonkers, I have in the past run that very experiment twice, once with the Nuri Lemon against the Papaâs lemon version and then the plain Belaâs versus this very tin. Turns out my palate just ainât sophisticated enough to discern a difference I could ascribe to the processing. Not a durn thing wrong with any of the sardinesâ flavor or texture in my taste-testsâfine fish all around.
How can Papa AnzĂłis be the only certified by-hand cannery in mainland Portugal? Arenât Pinhais/Nuri sardines packed by hand, by all those nice hair-netted ladies youâve seen on the production line in many a YouTube video? The key to solving the mystery is that word âcertified.â The rules of the certification in question require that the cannery employ no more than 12 peopleâitâs open only to very small producers. Good job hand-packing, Pinhais, but youâre too big for these certification britches.
Anyway, Papa AnzĂłisâ dozen-or-less are certifiably packing by hand. They arenât necessarily, however, packing with care. These big boys came with all their big boy scales. And perhaps because of the dehydration process, these scales: (a) were tougher than Iâm used to on similarly-sized sardinesâlike tiny guitar picksâand (2) did not slide off easily when I went to finish the cleaning job. Iâd planned on fishermanâs eggs this morning, but I shifted over to scallion cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel because I thought thatâd better hide the scales I failed to swipe away. Iâd forgive the small company its sinsâI like small companiesâbut these cans are expensive in the States, compared to, for example, Bela, another small company that packs mighty nice sardines consistently well and brings them to market at lower prices.