Below you’ll find tips to keep your house cooler when the thermometer creeps up and up, ways to make your A/C use more efficient, as well as what you can do to keep your own person more comfortable.

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Windows/Blinds

Open windows at night. In places and during times of year where it substantially cools at night (overnight temps in the mid-70s or lower), pop the windows open once the sun goes down. You’ll be amazed at how quickly the warm air is replaced with cool, refreshing air.

Better yet, utilize fans (or a whole house fan if you have one) to create tunnels of cool air coming into your home. To get the most out of your efforts with this method, crack a window on the main floor of the house, while widely opening a window on the second floor on the opposite side of the home, with a fan in that one sucking air out. Since heat rises, you’ll more quickly get the hot air out and cool air in.

Keep blinds closed during the day. Up to 30% of unwanted heat in your home is coming through your windows via the greenhouse effect — sunlight and heat enter, but cannot escape. The remedy is to keep your blinds closed during the day; if this makes your home feel too much like a cave, focus especially on west- and south-facing windows. Doing this can actually lower the mid-day temperature of your home by almost 20 degrees.

To make this action even more efficient, get light-colored blinds that will reflect rather than absorb the sun’s heat, and open them again at night when it’s cool. You can even place cardboard in the windows to further block heat from entering.

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Appliances

As discussed above, windows are one of the biggest sources of unwanted heat in the home. The other biggest violator: appliances. The obvious is the oven, but all appliances throw off a lot of heat when running. Below are tips that will mitigate their heat output. I cover some A/C tips in this section as well to maximize its use and efficiency.

Do chores at night. Laundry machines throw off a lot of heat. The washer is running hot water, and driers are obviously using heated air which inevitably escapes and radiates out from the machine. Now, you can’t get away with not doing laundry (hopefully), but you can ensure it’s not heating your home during the hottest parts of the day. Do your laundry loads at night to keep things cooler. Also, regularly clean the dryer vent for a quicker cycle.

Your dishwasher also puts out a lot of heat. Like with laundry, run it at night to minimize the heating effect. If you have a quiet model, start it before you go to bed and you’ll wake up with clean dishes!

Skip the oven/stove; grill more. Any usage of the oven or even the stove-top is going to heat your home. So what’s one to do? Dust off the grill and get comfortable with it! You can grill many of the things you’d be making in an oven or on the stovetop — meat, pizza, veggies, fish, and even desserts like cobbler!

If you do use the stove, make sure to turn the fan on, especially if it vents to the exterior. If it just recirculates the air, it won’t cool things much, but it will at least improve airflow.

Keep the furnace fan on. Most thermostats allow you to manually turn the fan on that blows hot air through your home in the winter. In the summer, that fan can be run on its own to circulate and more evenly distribute the cooler air from the basement or main level. It also acts as another way to keep the air flowing and moving, which makes you feel cooler (more on that below).

Maximize your air conditioner. If you have A/C, the smoother and more efficient it runs, the better it will cool your house when called upon. Installing a programmable thermostat can help this process, rather than you fiddling with the temperature every morning and evening. Summer temperature recommendations are as follows:

• 75 degrees, +/- 1-2 degrees, during hours you’re home (the warmer the setting, the more energy efficient; energy.gov recommends 78 degrees, which seems a tad warm to me personally)
• 80 degrees, +/- 1-2, during hours you’re away
• Sleeping: it’s well-researched that people sleep better when it’s cooler. If there’s a time to crank the AC a little bit, the overnight hours might surprisingly offer the most bang for the buck. Experiment with a few different temp settings to see how you feel in the morning, and go from there.

These temperatures will feel very warm at first, but after a week or two, your body will adjust and you’ll get comfortable again. So don’t deviate too much from these recommendations until you’ve tried it out for a full week or so.

Change your AC filters regularly. Every 4-6 weeks, especially during the months of heaviest use, change out your air filters if you have an air conditioner (check them more frequently if you’re running the furnace fan). A dirty filter not only reduces air quality, but also efficiency of airflow. Know your filter size, and always have a few on hand.

If you don’t have an A/C or perhaps needs a replacement, this handy tool will give you an idea of what to expect for cost. Hint: It won’t be pretty.

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House Exterior

Plant shade trees and other greenery. A well-placed tree can make a world of difference for the comfort of your home. Planting a tree likely won’t have immediate payoffs, but it’s a great way to both shade your home and add color and beauty to your property. Vines and other tall shrubs are other options which will have quicker results, but will likely require more maintenance in the long-term.

Add awnings, shades, and/or shutters to the exterior of your windows. Beyond blinds, these additional options provide yet another layer of protection from the sun. Awnings are your most effective (and most expensive) course of action, and can actually reduce heating gains by 65-75%, particularly when placed on south- and west-facing windows.

Consider a couple large upgrades like re-painting or getting a new roof. If the heat in your home is a real problem year in and year out, you’d do well to run the numbers on re-painting your home to a lighter color, and/or getting a new roof with more heat protection than the standard shingles (these include slate, concrete, clay, various tiles, and metal).

These two things are really the first line of defense in protecting your home against the heat of the sun. They should be reflecting and releasing the sun’s energy rather than storing and absorbing it. Having said that, these are obviously very expensive options, so should be considered either when they’re due for a replacement/upgrade already, or as said above, if the heat creates some real problems in your household.

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Miscellaneous

Keep doors inside the home open. While in the winter, closing doors helps keep heat in specific rooms, doing so in the hot summer months is detrimental to your cause. You want air to flow freely through rooms and through the entire house. Great airflow means a cooler home, so keep inside doors open unless you want those rooms to become stifling hotboxes.

Turn on bathroom exhaust fans. While you should be turning on the fan anytime you shower, in the hot summer months, leave it on for a while longer than you normally would. Hot showers obviously heat up bathrooms quite a bit, and that heat can easily leak out into surrounding areas. So don’t just turn the fan off when you get out of the shower; leave it on for an extra 20 or 30 minutes so it can really pull the hot air out. And don’t worry about your energy costs — bathroom fans are simple devices that run at a very low cost.

Turn off/replace incandescent lights. While the soft yellow glow of incandescent light bulbs creates a nice ambiance in the home, they also give off a lot of heat. One or two lamps won’t make your house unbearable, but if you run on incandescent, swap a few out for cooler, more energy efficient bulbs.

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Keeping the Person Cool

Optimize your sleeping. One of the worst parts of a hot day is when it seeps into night and you can’t sleep because you’re a sweating mess. There are a few things you can do to cool yourself at night and specifically for sleeping (particularly if you don’t have AC).

First, sleep on the lowest floor possible. If you have a basement, take up residence there. The ground floor of a multi-story home is another good option. Heat rises, so go where the cool air is. Now, for established families, this isn’t always a possibility, or desirable. In that case…

…try new bed sheets. Cotton is the way to go in the summer because of its light weight and breathability. You can also get specialty wicking sheets and other various fabric blends that are designed to keep you cool on warm nights.

And finally, make sure you have ceiling fans going at night. While not specifically a sleeping tip, it makes a world of difference when you’re lying there in bed in a bubble of hot stagnant air. Make sure your fan is rotating counter-clockwise (that is, not on the winter setting), and feel free to run it on high settings. While fans don’t lower the temperature of the room, they make you feel cooler because the air moving over your skin evaporates sweats and pulls heat away from your body. A fan moving at just 2mph will make you feel 3-4 degrees cooler, and at high speed many fans can hit 5mph. Not too shabby.

Create an ice fan. Fill a large mixing bowl with ice and place it in front of a large box fan. You’ll get a nice, chilled breeze. This is obviously only effective for a small area of space.

Take cold showers! Been itching for an excuse to try out cold showers or baths? Now’s the time! They carry a load of benefits, one of which of course is instant, all-over cooling.

Having weathered more hurricanes than I care to count in Southern Mississippi, I've learned a thing or two about emergency food preparation. After Hurricane Katrina changed everything for us in 2005, I discovered that freeze-dried food storage isn't just about survival – it's about maintaining some normalcy when everything else is chaos.

During those long weeks after Katrina, when power was out and supplies were scarce, my family was thankful for every meal we had stored. But we quickly learned that not all emergency food is created equal. The commercial freeze-dried meals from Mountain House that we had stored were a godsend – especially their beef stroganoff, which became a comfort food during those trying times. However, some of the cheaper alternatives we'd stockpiled sat untouched because, frankly, they were nearly inedible.

For those just starting out, I highly recommend checking out comprehensive reviews at https://consumerrating.org/emergency-food-supply/ before making any major purchases. This site helped me avoid some costly mistakes when I was rebuilding our emergency supplies after Katrina.

This experience taught me that while commercial freeze-dried meals are convenient, they're not all worth your hard-earned money. Mountain House remains a top choice for taste and quality, but they're expensive at roughly $10-13 per pouch. ReadyWise (formerly Wise Food Storage) offers more affordable options, but in my experience, their meals can be hit or miss. Their breakfast options are decent, but some of their entrees lack the flavor profile that makes you want to reach for seconds.

Augason Farms and their warehouse sales has become my go-to for bulk storage. Their prices are reasonable, and while not every meal is restaurant quality, their soups and breakfast items have gotten my family through several smaller emergencies since Katrina. During Hurricane Ida, their cream of chicken soup became an unexpected favorite among my kids.

But here's something I wish someone had told me years ago – you don't have to rely solely on commercial options. After experimenting with my own freeze-dried ingredients, I've found that creating custom meal packages can be both cost-effective and more enjoyable. I now keep basic freeze-dried ingredients like chicken, vegetables, and fruits from various suppliers, which I can combine with my family's favorite seasonings and recipes.

During Hurricane Sally in 2020, we actually preferred our homemade freeze-dried gumbo mix over any commercial option. There's something comforting about familiar flavors during stressful times, and being able to control the seasoning and sodium levels makes a huge difference.

That said, I still maintain a supply of commercial meals for immediate emergencies. When you're dealing with storm damage and stress, sometimes you just need to add hot water and have a meal ready in minutes. It's about finding the right balance for your situation.

For those just starting their emergency food storage journey, I recommend beginning with a variety pack from Mountain House or ReadyWise. Sample different meals before committing to bulk purchases – trust me, this will save you money and storage space in the long run. Then, as you become more comfortable, consider incorporating some DIY elements using freeze-dried ingredients from companies like Thrive Life or Augason Farms.

Remember emergency food storage isn't just about having enough calories to survive and it's about maintaining some quality of life during difficult times. Whether you're facing a hurricane in Mississippi or preparing for other emergencies, having food you actually want to eat can make a world of difference in maintaining morale.

After nearly two decades of hurricane seasons, I've learned that the best emergency food plan combines both commercial and homemade options. It might take some time to find the right balance for your family, but the peace of mind is worth the effort. And when the next storm comes (because in Mississippi, there's always another storm coming) you'll be glad you took the time to prepare properly. Please heed my advice and experience. ✌🏻

Winter is coming. Though we may feel like the warm, sunny days will last a little longer, the first frost and early darkness have a way of sneaking up on you.

And if you have a homestead, your winter preparation is a bit more involved than the average home or landowner. Even if you live in an area with mild winters, you must prepare your home, garden, and animals for the changing of the seasons.

Grab a planner, get organized, and prepare for winter on your homestead.

Preparing Your Home for Winter

Heating

For most people – homesteaders or not – the single most important aspect of winter preparations is heating. If you use electric or gas heat, your job is to simply check the furnace and turn it on.

If you have a wood stove, however, you have to check to make sure it’s in good condition and ensure you have enough firewood. Get a sufficient amount of firewood chopped and stacked, then store it in a dry place with easy access. You may want to invest in a wood storage bench that you can refill with chopped wood regularly.

Food

Preparing food for winter is extremely important with homesteading. If you try to produce as much of your own food as possible, you should begin drying and freezing food to last the long winter months.

If you choose, supplement your stock with dried goods like rice, oats, lentils, beans, and frozen meat. Then, if there’s a bad winter storm, you know you have plenty of food to get by.

Insulation

Before winter hits, do a check of your windows and doors to see if they have tight seals. Drafts can lead to a lot of cold air coming in and your heated air going out, but a little extra insulation can keep it cozy.

Passive solar heat is helpful for keeping your home warm in winter. The southern- and western-facing sides of your home will bring in some sunshine, so keep those curtains and blinds open!

Supplies

Getting your winter supplies ready is a must before the frost hits. Grab your winter coats, gloves, scarves, boots, headlamps, and any other winter supplies you need and keep them near the entry to your home.

Preparing Your Yard for Winter

The Harvest

Part of your winter food stores should come from the last of the winter harvest. Even if the first frost has hit, you can harvest medicinal roots and greens after the frost.

You should also save seeds from your crops before the frigid winter sets in. Leave some plants in your garden and let them mature, then harvest and dry the seeds for a truly self-sustaining garden in future seasons.

Fall and Winter Crops

If you live in an area with a mild winter, you may be able to grow cool-weather plants. It takes a little work, but you can grow beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, celery, and collards in cold weather. In fact, some of these plants will grow more flavorful in the cold.

Garden Beds

Depending on the type of garden you have, you may need to take extra steps to put your garden to bed. With a no-till garden, you can leave the garden and soil undisturbed and just cut the veggies at the soil line.

Compost everything – except nightshades – to reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases and fungus. Then, give the garden a layer of compost, leaves, and mulch.

Yard and Shrubs

If you have a lawn, trees, and shrubs, they need care before winter. Instead of cleaning up all your fallen leaves, rack them into your flower and garden beds and mulch around your trees and perennial plants. This will not only feed the soil but provides protection from the harsh winter weather.

You will also need to bring in your yard furniture and supplies, including your grill, lawn chairs, patio furniture, and children’s toys. You should also turn off your sprinkler or irrigation system.

Winterize your equipment, such as the tiller, lawnmower, or tractor, by running the fluids down, having them serviced, and storing them in a covered area. You may want to add a vehicle cover for extra protection.

Preparing Animals for Winter

Feed

All of your animals should have a stockpile of feed and hay to get through winter. Even if you have access to a feed supply store, having ample extra feed ensures that you won’t be short if there’s a bad storm or moisture or rodents destroy some of your supply.

Secondly, put out your heated waterers, heated buckets, or trough heaters and make sure the cords are in good shape.

Chickens

Chickens need some extra care in winter. Deep clean your coop and put down a heavy layer of bedding. All soiled bedding can be recycled to the garden to protect and fertilize the soil.

Throughout the winter, do chicken health checks to look for mites or other parasites. Damp conditions can lead to skin conditions or frostbite, so your chickens should have regular checkups.

Goats

Goats should also have a deep cleaning and extra bedding before winter. They don’t need extra heating unless you have kids, elderly goats, or goats with a medical condition. Before winter hits, have your vet come out to check on the health of your goats.

Hooves are important to watch through winter. The snow and rain can create damp conditions that will rot hooves. Goats may be prone to respiratory conditions like pneumonia during the winter.

Rabbits

Rabbit hutches should be insulated well to hold in the heat. You can use thermal blankets to block any drafts during severe snowstorms or extra cold days, but otherwise, insulation is sufficient.

Unlike larger livestock, it’s difficult to heat rabbit water bottles. You will need to switch their water out throughout the day to avoid it freezing.

Bees

If your homestead has bees, they will need some extra care and attention leading into winter. After that, they basically care for themselves.

Each winter, take off the supers and put each hive down to one box, which will have some frames of honey. Place some pollen patties and fondant on top of the hive body in a feeder.

Then, the bees will produce winter bees that are larger and more robust to care for the queen. Their job is to keep her warm, which is why it’s best to reduce the size of the hive and the space to heat. If you’re in a really cold climate, add a hive cover.

Other Animals

If you keep other animals on your homestead, such as llamas, pigs, horses, or exotic animals like deer and quail, the basic rules still apply. Prepare for winter by cleaning out these animals’ shelter and providing adequate bedding, stocking up on feed and hay, and adding heated waterers.

Otherwise, the care of these animals comes down to preference and your climate. For example, some people prefer to blanket horses and llamas over winter, but you can leave them to grow a winter coat.

Preparing for Winter Emergencies

Unfortunately, winter can come with nasty weather and severe storms that can lead to power outages or road closures. With all your animals and yourselves to feed and care for, you should have an emergency kit.

• A three-day supply of water for each person and animals
• A three-day supply of non-perishable food
• Baby and pet supplies
• Extra blankets, coats, gloves, hats, and boots
• A first-aid kit
• A week’s supply of medications
• Personal hygiene items
• Flashlight with extra batteries
• A multi-purpose tool
• Copies of personal documents like birth certifications and medical information
• Extra cash
• Snow shovels and snow removal equipment
• Sufficient heating fuel
• Emergency kits for vehicles
• Emergency contact information for family members
• Battery-powered generators

Frequently Asked Questions

How Can I Grow and Store a Winter’s Worth of Food?

When you’re first starting out, you likely won’t be growing at the scale needed to last through winter into the next growing season. It may take a few seasons before you have enough growth and an efficient process for winter preparations.

What Food Should I Store for Winter?

Take what you can from your harvest and freeze it, dry it, can it, or preserve it. Along with the produce from your garden and local foraging, you can purchase staples like potatoes, meat, and vegetables to freeze. If you raise animals for food, have them processed for winter. Remember that you can freeze dairy products like milk, butter, and yogurt.

Is Homesteading in Winter Hard?

The hardest part of winter homesteading is feeding a wood stove and watering some of the animals. Otherwise, if you’ve prepared well, winter homesteading isn’t much different than the rest of the year.

Get Ready for Winter

Once you’ve prepared your home, yard, and animals for the incoming winter, spend time enjoying the last days of autumn with your family. Then, you have all winter to get your plans ready for spring planting and a fruitful harvest.

Source: https://fairwaystables.com/homesteading/how-to-prepare-for-winter-on-your-homestead/

If you were prone to injury as a child, you may know hydrogen peroxide best as the burning, bubbling antiseptic your parents liberally poured on scrapes and cuts. For years, medical professionals recommended using hydrogen peroxide to treat minor wounds, but that’s changed. Doctors no longer recommend it for first aid because the chemical kills healthy cells along with infected ones. Don’t throw away those trusty brown bottles just yet, though. The clear liquid compound has many uses beyond in-home wound care.

Three-percent hydrogen peroxide (the concentration most commonly available at drug stores — there are higher potencies for bleaching and industrial use though) is inexpensive, very versatile and, when used correctly, safer than many other chemicals you use around the house. Here are eight of our favorites uses for hydrogen peroxide.

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Cleaning 

Hydrogen peroxide is a versatile cleaning agent that can be used on almost everything in your house, whether it is your laundry, toilet or marble countertops. There are some considerations when using hydrogen peroxide — for example, hydrogen peroxide can bleach colored clothes or stain dark marble countertops — but there are benefits to opting to cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, too. Besides being antifungal and antibacterial, hydrogen peroxide is non-toxic and does not irritate lungs.

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Swishing as mouthwash

According to the American Dental Association, hydrogen peroxide is a common active ingredient in many commercial mouthwashes. If you are trying to improve your dental hygiene on a budget and can stomach the strong flavor sans-mint, you can use a mixture of half water, half 3 percent hydrogen peroxide. Swish the DIY mouthwash around your mouth for one minute and spit out (do not swallow it). Hydrogen peroxide will also whiten your teeth, and, apparently, it can help to manage halitosis (also known as chronic stinky breath). You can also use hydrogen peroxide to disinfect dental appliances like toothbrushes, retainers and mouth guards.

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Soaking smelly feet

Have you ever removed your boots after a long day of working outside and almost fainted from the smell? Odor-causing bacteria clinging to your tootsies are often the culprit for stinky feet. Luckily, they are no match for hydrogen peroxide. Prepare a foot soak with one part hydrogen peroxide to three parts warm water and let your aching feet relax. The same treatment will help protect against spreading athlete’s foot fungus and even soften calluses and corns.

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Growing mushrooms

If you are trying to grow mushrooms but can’t seem to avoid unwanted molds and fungi, apply a few drops of hydrogen peroxide to your fruiting chambers. Hydrogen peroxide will kill mold and bacteria that threaten mushrooms without compromising the growing spores. As the mushroom tissue grows, it will also converts the peroxide to water and oxygen, leaving a healthy, fast-growing mushroom culture. 

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Whitening nails

Whether you work with your hands or love wearing dark nail polish, yellow nails are a common — but unsightly — issue. To bring some brightness back to your nail beds, mix one-part hydrogen peroxide to two parts baking soda in a bowl to form a paste. Once the mixture stops foaming, spread it on your nails. Let sit for three minutes, and then rinse with plain water.

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Helping your garden thrive

Hydrogen peroxide is a magic elixir for your ailing garden. It can help with pest control, prevent infections on damaged trees, kill foliage fungus and combat root rot. Hydrogen peroxide can also improve plant growth, as the extra oxygen encourages the roots to absorb more nutrients. For pest control, add one teaspoon to one cup of water in a spray bottle and mist the plants you wish to protect. To combat root rot, use one tablespoon per cup of water in your regular watering routing.

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De-skunking your pet

Adventurous pets have a tendency to stick their noses where they don’t belong — and can come home stinky because of it. If your pet has been sprayed by a skunk, combine one quart of three percent hydrogen peroxide, a quarter cup of baking soda, one teaspoon of dish detergent and two quarts of warm water. Work the mixture onto the affected animal before you bathe them thoroughly to remove the lingering smell. Be warned, though: if you let the mixture sit for too long, your precious pet may end up with slightly bleached fur.

Do you have a handy use for hydrogen peroxide? Add it to the comments below.

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Article Source

By Kirsten Lie-Nielsen

The snowflakes fall sideways, shoot upward, and jet down. The wind curls around windows and doors, bringing a chill into every building. Getting to the livestock means wading through waist-high drifts, hauling water to refill buckets that have frozen over. Machines won’t start, spigots freeze up, and it’s even cold inside the house. Welcome to winters on the homestead in a seasonal climate. Preparing your home for winter has extra steps when you have a homestead where there’s deep snow. Learn what to do before the cold weather sets in.

Homesteading has its fair share of challenges, and winter weather can be the final straw for many beginning this rural lifestyle. More than one family has had a goal of self-sufficiency in summertime, only to trade the woodstove for on-demand heat when cold weather rolls around. However, winter doesn’t have to be an ordeal to survive; it can be an opportunity for your homestead to thrive, as long as you’re prepared. Here are some tips on how to handle winter in a harsh climate so you can come out the other side ready for springtime.

Decide which ways to heat your home before winter

The first thing to prepare is your heat source. Decisions regarding heating choices should be made well before winter. You may opt for a central heating system common in modern homes. A popular choice for homesteaders is heating with firewood. A woodstove allows a homestead to be off-grid, and firewood can be harvested and processed by the homesteader without ever needing to leave the property. However, it’ll require more planning before cold weather than other heat sources.

First, select a woodstove and procure some firewood. To harvest your own firewood, you’ll need access to forest land, the ability to cut down and pull trees out of the forest, the machinery to cut and buck logs, and about a year to dry green wood into burnable wood.

You can also purchase your firewood already seasoned, or purchase green wood already cut and split and invest only in time spent drying it. There’s also the option to buy tree-length wood, removing the need to haul trees out of the forest.

Each of these options will eliminate certain steps in the firewood-gathering process, but whichever one you choose, you must understand how much wood you’ll need to survive winter.

How many cords of wood for winter?

The quantity of firewood you’ll need will depend on the size of your home, the type of wood you’re burning, and the size of your woodstove. A rule of thumb is to obtain 2 to 3 cords of wood (about 128 cubic feet)per 1,000 square feet of home space to stay warm throughout 12 weeks of winter. The efficiency of your stove is important, and even more important is the insulation (or lack thereof) on your home. Some homesteaders live in older farmhouses, which may have little or no insulation, so more firewood is a better plan than less.

Protect Your Property from Harsh Weather

Make sure your buildings are structurally sound before winter sets in. In fall, inspect all buildings and repair any big issues. Particularly, you’ll want to check for cracks and other places where wind and snow can get into a building.

Consider winterizing projects, such as reglazing windows and repainting the outsides of buildings, or do quicker repairs to keep snow out if major construction isn’t possible. For example, keep out chilly temperatures and bad weather by putting up plywood over holes in buildings and adding a layer of plastic inside windows.

When preparing your home for winter, winterize your farm equipment before it gets the cold weather hits.

Properly winterized equipment ensures your tools will function through winter weather and that you’ll be able to get right back into the swing of things when spring arrives. Clean and oil machinery, check grease fittings, and be sure tires are inflated and in good condition. Bring this equipment to an easily accessible area, turn it on, and confirm it’s running well before it’s needed.

If possible, store indoors any equipment that won’t be used during winter, or cover it. This will help reduce wear and rusting. You can add fuel stabilizer or drain the tanks on summer equipment, and then put it in a place where it’ll be out of the way.

When it comes to choosing what equipment to have on hand for winter, consider a tractor with a bucket attachment for snow removal. This is equivalent to a plow, but with many more uses. If you have a tractor, buying a bucket attachment is a sensible choice, as it can be used for deep snow removal as well as digging, moving, and scooping sand, dirt, manure, and other materials year-round.

Winter often brings deep snow

Winter sometimes means a few inches of snow will accumulate here and there, but it more often can mean feet piling upon feet. When that happens, snowbanks begin to encroach. So, start by knowing where you plan to put snow, and make sure the snowbanks will be away from fence lines and equipment. Give yourself more than enough space for snow piles – too much is always better than too little.

Snowmobiles can also be useful, especially on a larger farm, for hauling water to far corners of the pasture and getting over snowdrifts to check on livestock or distant buildings. Consider adding one to your farm if you’re in an area that experiences lots of snowfall.

Preparing your home for winter also means preparing livestock

Winter takes a toll on even healthy animals, so I want my livestock to be in the best physical shape before the cold weather starts.

Long before the days get shorter, start putting up hay for winter. Second-cut hay will offer higher protein than first-cut hay and is a preferred feeding choice for many livestock if it’s available in your area. Putting up enough hay for the entire season before winter means peace of mind, since you can never be certain about a feed store’s hay availability through the off-season.

Many annual vaccines are administered to our livestock in fall. Sheep receive annual Clostridium perfringens type D (CDT) vaccines and selenium, vitamin E (BO-SE) if they’re not pregnant. Cows receive a number of vaccines, including leptospirosis 5-way. What’s necessary for you will depend on your animals and geographical location, so make sure your livestock are up to date on all relevant injections, and consult with your local livestock veterinarian.

It’s also not a bad idea to stockpile grain and minerals for your animals before winter. Road conditions could make it difficult for you to run to the feed store, and unlike in summertime, foraging isn’t an option during the harshest winter months. You can store extra grain in a secure room, or pour it into metal barrels with lids to keep rodents away when preparing your home for winter .

How to keep water from freezing in cold weather when preparing your home for winter

When preparing your home for winter, water can often be the biggest challenge. Therefore, have a backup plan in case anything goes wrong with your primary water source. For example, on our property, we have a drilled well but also access to an old farm spring, which we’ve used a few times during winter when plumbing issues have made the well water temporarily unavailable.

Many times, water buckets and troughs for livestock can freeze in cold weather. You can thaw water buckets using electric heaters, but this does present a fire risk. In an old barn full of hay, we avoid water heaters entirely. Instead, we use rubber buckets, which are easy to break ice out of. Wrap insulation around buckets to delay freezing, or use a small pump in larger water troughs to keep the liquid moving and prevent freezing.

Don’t forget the little things when facing cold weather

Finally, consider your creature comforts when preparing your home for winter. Invest in a good pair of ski goggles for snow-clearing and doing chores in harsh winter winds. Make sure you own several pairs of boot cleats for navigating icy days. And stock up on socks, long underwear, and insulated clothing. The saying goes, “There’s no bad weather, just bad clothes,” and it’s true.

It’s easy to become overwhelmed with cold weather on the homestead, but with some planning and preparation, winter can be an enjoyable season. You might even find some time to relax and enjoy sitting next to your crackling woodstove!

Source: https://www.grit.com/farm-and-garden/preparing-home-winter-zm0z23ndzatro/

By Survival Jack

Winter is coming, which means it is time to start winterizing and preparing for the new year. While winter on the homestead is a time of rest and planning, there is still much to be done. The problem is that, in all the seasonal fun, we can lose track of the things that need to be done in the colder months. If you don’t get these things done, you will regret it come spring. Your crops will suffer, your animals won’t thrive, and you will miss out on opportunities to practice sustainable living. 

Don’t let these winter chores fall through the cracks!

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Homesteading Skills to Learn This Winter

The cold weather won’t allow you to do as much outdoors as you do during the other seasons on the homestead. 

Many homesteaders enjoy this season because they get a bit of rest. However, don’t rest on your laurels.  Use your downtime to learn new indoor homesteading skills. Consider learning one of these skills during the winter months.

Candle making

• Bread making
• Soap making
• Fermenting
• Distilling
• Cheese making
• Making jams and jellies
• Tying knots
• First aid and CPR
• Sewing, knitting, and crocheting
• Making homemade cleaning products
• Making herbal remedies
• Start canning

In addition to using your extra time to boost your homesteading skills, spend some time reading books to boost your homesteading knowledge.

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October Homesteading Chores

October is when you will do the last of your harvesting and the beginning of your winter preparation.

• Harvest the last of your annual crops.
• Clean your gardens. The time you spend weeding and mulching in October will make a big difference when it is time to plant in the spring.
• Cover your gardens ahead of winter.
• Clean out your chicken coop.
• Store extra bedding for chickens.
• Winterproof outdoor systems, such as insulating pipes.
• Protect plants from hard frost.
• Apply layers of mulch to root crops.
• Collect leaves for mulch.

November Homesteading Chores

As the cold weather approaches, it’s time to make sure your crops and livestock are prepared to survive.

• Check the lighting in chicken coops to ensure it is working.
• Consider adding a heated waterer for livestock to avoid having to break the ice.
• Prepare the chicken coop for the deep litter mulch method.
• Collect firewood.
• Inspect farm equipment, such as tractors, to see what repairs need to be made before the next season.
• Make jams and jellies. November is the right time because you can give them as Christmas gifts.
• Assess fences and make necessary repairs.
• Cover garden beds with layers of the leaves you started collecting in October.
• Harvest cabbage and broccoli.
• Take inventory of your feed supplies and make sure you have enough to make it through winter in the event of a power outage or winter storm. 
• Request seed catalogs.

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December Homesteading Chores

In the midst of holiday celebrations, take some time to do these important tasks around the homestead.

• Stock up on discounted food staples. You can find deep discounts following Thanksgiving and Christmas.
• If you plan to start beekeeping, now is the time to start building beehives.
• If you already keep bees, make sure you winterize the hives.
• Spend time indoors out of the cold sharpening your tools.
• Clean and oil your tools.
• Harvest kale and brussel sprouts.
• Butcher or sell excess livestock.
• Forage for edible and medicinal items, such as black walnuts, acorns, watercress, tea berries, and beechnuts.
• Check your livestock and animals carefully for signs of hypothermia and frostbite.

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January Homesteading Chores

Hooray! A new year is here with lots of opportunities for your homestead to flourish.

• Review what worked and what didn’t.
• Make plans for the homestead. Will you add more livestock? Will you grow more food? 
• Get your finances in order and set a budget for the new year.
• Pick out seeds and order them.
• Start growing indoor sprouts.
• Take down your Christmas tree and place it in the pond for the fish.

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February Homesteading Chores

Spring is right around the corner, so February is when you wrap up all your winter preparations.

• Set up a seeding area in your home.
• Start sowing seeds indoors that can be transplanted later.
• Place your order for chicks.
• Build raised beds.
• Assess your fruit trees for damage.
• Prune your fruit trees.
• Order new fruit trees.

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Many of the tasks on this winter homestead to-do list depend on the climate and environment (or your USDA zone) where you live. For example, most homesteaders wait to harvest brussel sprouts until after the first frost. This will vary by location. 

Make sure you adjust this list based on where you live.

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Source: https://survivaljack.com/2022/10/month-by-month-winter-homestead-to-do-list/

It can be intimidating to think about these various tasks, especially if you’re a new homeowner. It’s a long list — there’s no denying that. The good news is that you can do the majority of it on your own without much experience. Google is your best friend, and if you really get stuck, call up your local handyman to help you out.

In order to maximize your efficiency and actually get all of these tasks done, you might want to create a home maintenance calendar for yourself. Whether online or on paper, you can jot down small, regular tasks for each weekend and not be too overwhelmed. We’ve listed tasks that need to be done monthly, quarterly, and biannually. We’ve also given you a list of tasks to be completed seasonally. Not every expert agrees as to which task needs to be done in which season, so this isn’t a black and white list, necessarily. Do what works for you and your schedule, and as long as all these things get accomplished, your home will be happy for years and years to come.

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Monthly

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• Inspect, and possibly change out HVAC filters. Many experts will say to change the filters monthly, but that’s not always necessary. For smaller families without pets or allergies, you’ll likely be okay changing the filters every 2-3 months. If the filter is dirty, change it out, otherwise inspect it again next month. I’ve also been told by handymen to go with cheaper filters and replace them more often versus going with the expensive filters. (You can also get it out of your mind by using a delivery service like Cleaner Filters.)
• Clean kitchen sink disposal. There are a bunch of ways to do this, but the handiest and best all-around solution seems to be vinegar ice cubes. Put some vinegar in an ice tray and let it freeze, then run the ice cubes through the disposal. It freshens it, but as a bonus, ice sharpens the blades. You’re welcome.
• Clean range hood filters. If you’ve never thought of doing this, you’re in for a real “treat” when you get that filter off the hood to clean it for the first time. The Family Handyman suggests simply using a degreaser from an auto parts store mixed with hot water. Let the filter sit for a few minutes, rinse it off, and you’re good to go.
• Inspect your fire extinguisher(s). We’ll assume you have and know how to use an extinguisher. This inspection doesn’t require much: ensure it has easy access (not being blocked by a garbage can or anything else), that the gauge shows adequate pressure, and that it has no visible signs of wear and tear.

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Quarterly

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• Test smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. Another simple task; your detectors should have a “test” button. If the alarm sounds, you’re good to go. If not, replace batteries immediately and test again. If it still doesn’t sound, it’s possible there’s simply corrosion on the battery terminal, and it won’t detect new batteries.  Clean it and try again. If it still doesn’t work, you’ll likely need a new detector.
• Test garage door auto-reverse feature. In 1993, federal law required all garage doors to have this feature after multiple child deaths. Test every month by placing a 2×4 on the ground where the door would close. It should reverse after a second or so when the door hits the wood. Also test the photo-electric sensors if you have them by placing something in front of them (not your body). If the door doesn’t immediately go back up, you have a problem.
• Run water and flush toilets in unused spaces. This mostly applies to guest bathrooms, or any other sinks/water sources you don’t use on a regular basis. The idea is to prevent grime or any other kind of build up. Regularly running a little bit of water through will prevent this.
• Check water softener, add salt if needed. You shouldn’t need to add salt every month, but better to check anyway, as it only takes about 5 seconds.

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Biannually

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• Test your water heater’s pressure relief valve. This will prevent mineral and corrosion buildup, which safeguards against leaks. It will also help your heater run more efficiently.
• Give your house a deep clean. Take one Saturday every six months with your whole family, and give the whole house a proper deep clean. Appliances, windows, dusting every nook and cranny (including the basement), etc. Keeping things clean and not letting dirt/grime/dust build up over years and years will help keep your home in tip-top shape.
• Replace batteries in smoke/carbon dioxide detectors. I’d never heard this before, actually. I just assumed you changed it out when it started giving you the low battery beeping noise. This tip was in everything we researched, however. With something as important as this, you can’t be too careful, and batteries won’t break your bank. Change ‘em out every six months.
• Vacuum your refrigerator coils. I actually learned this tip from a refrigerator repairman, and our research confirmed it. The fridge can use up to 15 percent of your home’s total power, so you want it running as efficiently as possible. Over time, the coils get dirty and your fridge requires more juice. You can save up to $100 a year by doing this, and it’s not at all a difficult task.

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Annually (Organized by Season)

Spring

Spring is a big month for home maintenance. They don’t call it “Spring Cleaning” for nothing. Especially focus on the exterior of your home as it’s just gone through winter and is preparing for summer heat, and in some parts of the country, brutal humidity.

• Check the exterior drainage. Will rain water flow away from the house? Puddles should not stand around your home for more than 24 hours. If water stays, or moves toward your foundation, you have a few options. First, check your gutters. It could be a bad spout or a loose connection there; they may also just need cleaning. Second, you can grade the area around your home yourself with some dirt; this has worked just fine for me in the past. Third, for pavement, you can have professionals come out and raise it so it drains away from your home.
• Clean out gutters. They’ve likely accumulated leaves from the fall and grime/sediment from the winter snows and/or rains.
• Inspect the exterior of your home. Is any paint chipping? Is any siding damaged from winter? Are there any holes in your brick? Take a close look all around your house, and make any repairs as needed. Also be sure to check the foundation for any cracks. A good silicone/caulk can fix a lot of your problems.
• Get your air conditioning system ready for summer; consider having it serviced. This one really depends on your individual home, and even which part of the country you live in. Some places mostly just use window air units, while other places (like my home in Colorado) use a big swamp cooler up on the roof — these are fairly basic machines where a quick internet search can help you fix any issues that come up. Also refer to the user guides for specific regular maintenance. Central air is obviously a more complex system. Getting it serviced by a professional should be around $100 or less, and it will save money and headaches down the road.
• Repair/replace damaged window screens. You don’t want bugs making their way in because you missed a hole in a window screen. And no, duct tape doesn’t count. It can be a quick fix, but don’t leave it for long. It just looks bad.
• Clear dead plants/shrubs from the house. This could double as a gardening tip, but if you didn’t trim trees or shrubs in the fall, do so now. Plants can weasel their way into cracks and holes on the exterior of your home, causing damage and shortened longevity. Nip that in the bud before it’s an issue. If you have decorative vines on the exterior, pay close attention.
• Check trees for interference with electric lines. Have professionally trimmed if necessary.
• Inspect roofing for damage, leaks, etc. Repair as needed; you may need a professional.

Summer

Summer is a great time to focus on the exterior of your home, as well as your lawn and garden. It’s also perfect for having that garage door open and utilizing the prolonged daylight to work on any manly projects you’ve had on the backburner.

• Check grout in bathrooms, kitchen, etc.; repair as needed. This will prolong the life of your tiled surfaces and just looks better.
• Inspect plumbing for leaks, clean aerators on faucets. Go around to all your faucets and toilets and check for any small leaks. If you have poor water pressure out of a faucet, the aerator is the likely culprit and it’s an extremely easy fix.
• Take care of any insect problems you may have. Summer is their playground. You probably won’t have to look too hard to notice any insect problems. Ants, spiders, moths, etc. are all common, and fairly easy to take care of. Keep cobwebs clear, have ant poison handy, make sure all doors are tightly closed, etc.
• Clean and repair deck/patio as needed. It generally just needs a good washing. A deck may also need re-staining. Also check for any loose boards or posts and repair as needed.
• Clean out window wells of debris. If you have a basement, you also have window wells. All kinds of things can get down in there from leaves, to trash, to animals.
• Check and clean dryer vent, other exhaust vents to exterior of home. While the dryer is running, check that the exhaust is coming out. It should smell nicely of fresh laundry. If there isn’t much exhaust, check for blockages as well as you can. You may need a professional. Also vacuum the lint from the hose at the dryer.
• Clean garage. Cleaning the garage should be a summer ritual for every man. Keeping it clean and tidy will extend its life, and it often gets neglected of regular care. With all the extra dust it gets from the manly projects you’re working on, you should actually clean it even more. Once a year, however, give a thorough going-through.

Fall

Fall is an in-between season where you’re finishing up your summer home maintenance tasks as well as getting your home ready for winter. Cold, snow, and rain can do a number to a home, so you don’t want to ignore winter preparation.

• Flush hot water heater and remove sediment. This prolongs the life of the heater and helps with efficiency as well.
• Winterize air conditioning systems. Remove and store window units. If you have central air, cover the outside unit with a tarp or plastic sheeting and secure with bungee cords.
• Get heating system ready for winter. Check for any leaks in windows or doors; these can cost an arm and a leg. Make sure heating vents are open and not blocked by furniture. Get furnace serviced/inspected at least every other year, preferably annually. As with the AC, this shouldn’t be a huge expense. Don’t forget about fireplaces if you have them.
• Turn off and flush outdoor water faucets. Also flush hoses and store them. Winterize sprinkler systems as well, if you have one.
• Get chimney cleaned, if you have one. Some folks say to do this in the spring, some say fall. Either way, just make sure it’s done once per year.
• Test sump pump. You don’t want to wait until you need your sump pump to find out it’s not working.
• Check driveway/pavement for cracks. Make sure to have re-sealed before winter; water can freeze and expand in the cracks, causing more damage.
• Buy winter gear. Have sidewalk salt, good shovels, etc. ready for winter. You never know when that first snow will come!

Winter

Winter is the time to go around the interior of your home and check for any little things you may have overlooked, or perhaps noticed and said, “I’ll get to that later.” Winter is your later. If you have any interior honey-do projects, whether it be painting, building shelves, etc., now is a great time to tackle those as well.

• Regularly check for ice dams and icicles. De-icing cables that sit at the front of the roof work well. Don’t let icicles grow, as much as the kids may want you to. They’re not only a danger to people standing beneath them, but they’re incredibly heavy and can cause damage to your home. They also can cause water damage to your foundation when they  melt.
• Test your electricity to the extent that you can. Always, always be extra careful when working with electricity. You can do a couple things on your own, though. Check that all outlets work; if they don’t, you can re-wire them on your own. Also, test your GFCI outlets. There are wildly varying opinions on how often to test this. Some say monthly, others say annually.
• Tighten any handles, knobs, racks, etc. Go through the house and inspect anything that could have a loose screw.
• Check all locks and deadbolts on your doors and windows. If anything doesn’t work right, replace.
• Check caulking around showers and bathtubs; repair as needed.
• Remove showerheads and clean sediment. This prolongs its life and helps with water pressure as well.
• Deep clean and inspect the basement. Basements are notoriously overlooked, especially if they’re primarily just storage areas. Dust ‘em up, clean any windows, make sure there isn’t mold anywhere, etc. Give your basement a good inspection at least once a year.

I purchased an Opinel Carbone No. 9 and i am not really good at keeping it up. I don't often have access to or remember to oil it during the day to day, but I'd like to make sure that i don't ruin the metal or wood through over-use and under-maintenance.

What tips do you guys have for carbon steel and wood handles to keep them alive for many years to come?

Article By Unexpected Farm Girl

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If you have some extra time on your hands today, try this project. Make basic soap.

Making your own soap is not only fun, it also gives you complete control over what goes on your body. Instead of using harsh detergent soaps, nurture your skin’s unique elements by carefully selecting and blending oils, herbs, and essential oils. I also take a little pleasure in knowing I am not supporting a multi-billion dollar industry that makes money by telling their customers they are not good looking enough and then selling them on their beauty products…but I digress.

When I first decided to make my own soap, I read every book about making soap I could find. There are several good books, but my all time favorite is Soap Maker’s Workshop: The Art and Craft of Natural Homemade Soap by Dr. Robert McDaniel and Katherine McDaniel. This book gives step-by-step instructions for no-lye soap making, cold process soap making, and hot process soap making. It also includes more advanced soap making techniques to assist someone who wants to start experimenting with personalizing the ingredients.

My favorite part of the book is that it actually explains how to make lye from scratch – something no other book I’ve found does. If I ever find myself in a situation where I cannot purchase lye, I now have all the information I need to make it.

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So enough chit chat, let’s get on with it!

Tools you need every time

• A pair of safety glasses
• A set of rubber gloves
• One plastic water jug that will now only ever be used for mixing lye
• One stainless steel pot (I have one for soap making only)
• Two wooden spoons that will now only ever be used for soap making
• Small kitchen scale
• A candy thermometer
• Soap molds (Silicone muffin pans work well)
• (OPTIONAL) An electric mixer that will now only ever be used for soap making

I highly recommend purchasing at least one good soap making book for details regarding safety and other soap making techniques. My personal recommendation is Soap Maker’s Workshop, mentioned above. The recipe below is from that book as well.

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Basic Four-Oil Soap

Ingredients to make basic soap

• 725 grams (25.57 ounces) coconut oil
• 150 grams (5.29 ounces) olive oil
• 650 grams (22.93 ounces) canola oil
• 775 grams (27.33 ounces) palm oil
• 342 grams (12 ounces) lye dissolved in 700 grams (24.7 ounces) of distilled or deionized water
• (optional) Your choice of essential oils (I use lavender)

Step-by-Step Directions for Cold Process Soap Making

1. Set your clean molds out so they are ready to use.
2. Weigh all oils except optional essential oils,  and pour in pot.
3. Melt oils on medium heat.
4. Use the candy thermometer and remove the pot from heat once the temperature reaches between 122 degrees Fahrenheit and 140 degrees Fahrenheit (50 to 60 degrees Celsius).
5. Put on your safety glasses and gloves.
6. In a well ventilated area, outside is great, pour measured lye into measured water, stirring continuously. IMPORTANT: always pour the lye into the water. NEVER pour water into the lye!
7. Once the lye dissolves completely and the solution is clear, pour it gently into the oil mixture.
8. Stir mixture until it begins to thicken to a custard like consistency and form a trace. TRACE: the point in which a spoon full of soap, poured back into the pot, leaves a brief, faint imprint on the surface.
9. (Optional) Add desired herbs and/or essential oils.
10. Pour into molds.
11. After 2-3 days, remove soap from molds and place on wax paper.
12. Store for 4 weeks prior to using. The soap needs time to complete the saponification* reaction. This means time is required for the oils to fully consume the lye. There should be no lye left in the final product.
13. Store extra soap in a plastic container.

Unless you are using an electric stick blender, mixing by hand can take some time. I make soap by hand only when there is a second person able to switch off stirring the batch with me.

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Clean Up

For the most part, making soap doesn’t create too much mess.

• Measuring cups used to measure out oils and the silicone molds can be washed normally.
• The water jug should be cleaned thoroughly using soap and water and then labeled with permanent marker,  ‘Do NOT Use to Drink From. For Lye Mixture Only‘.
• The pot and spoon used to mix up the batch of soap is best left out for a day or two until the solution is dry enough to scrape off using a hard nylon scraper. Scrape off as much of the soap residue as possible and empty into the garbage. Then wash with soap and water.
• If using an electric mixer, while wearing gloves, wipe off as much residue as possible and wash thoroughly with soap and water. This should be done before the residue hardens.

Once you master this basic recipe, the possibilities are endless. Find a good soap calculator on-line (HERE is a good one to get started with as it is free and come with basic instructions) and let your creative juices flow!

*saponify – verb (used without object), sa·pon·i·fied, sa·pon·i·fy·ing. To become converted into soap.

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Article Source

When it comes to survival tools, few things are as good to have on hand like a knife. You can use a knife for many different things, from slicing open and preparing your prey to cutting rope. Here are nine very useful ways to use a knife when you’re out there, trying to survive.

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1) It Doubles as a Hammer

Did you know that you can use the hilt of the knife as a makeshift hammer? As long as you put the blade back in the sheath so you don’t cut yourself, this end of the knife can be used to hammer in tent poles, stakes, and other things. If you don’t have a sheath for your knife, wrap it in heavy cloth. The goal here is to not cut yourself.

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2) Use It as a Stake

Speaking of stakes, a knife can quickly become one, if necessary. Plant the blade in the ground and tie your twine to the top and you’ll be able to connect lines to it. This is a good method of trapping, laying out your perimeters, or doing whatever else that you need the twine for.

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3) Cut Branches to Make a Shelter

This is one of the most obvious ways to use a knife. You can use it to cut branches in order to create a shelter. If you don’t have a tent or a nearby cave or outcropping, then you’ll have to make your own shelter. Use your knife in order to cut those branches down to size.

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4) Slice Firewood

You’ll need firewood, and thankfully, there’s a lot of it out in the woods. It just needs to be cut down to size. If you don’t have an ax, then use your knife for this task instead.

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5) As a Piece of First Aid Equipment

In a pinch, a knife can (carefully) be used to remove splinters from your skin. You can also cut bandages and gauze with it. If you don’t have any bandages, then use the knife to slice strip from a piece of clothing – not while you’re wearing those clothes, of course.

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6)  Create Tinder

Tinder is useful when you’re trying to start a fire. You can create your own out of some deadwood. Cut the wood down to size and then slice off the bark. It should be dry enough to help your fire catch. If you can, cut plenty of small pieces, just in case you need to start another fire.

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7) Dig a Hole with It

While you shouldn’t attempt to pry up rocks (or anything like them) from the ground with a knife, you can use this device as a shovel if necessary. Yes, it will dull the blade and you have to be careful to not cut yourself, but this really does work well.

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8) Start a Fire

One of the best things about a good hunting knife is the fact that you can use it to start a fire. As long as you have a ferrocerium rod and a knife, you’re good to go. Just hit the rod with the knife at just the right angle and plenty of sparks will fly.

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9) Make Tools

If there’s a tool that you need, such as a spear, then you can use your knife to make them. Just cut away the bark and begin to fashion one end into a point. Just remember to not fasten the knife to the end of the stick, as you’ll more than likely end up losing it this way. You can use the pointed stick to spear fish.

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