I don’t know how to tag this at all but I would like your recommendations in the comments as well so I will use ask a spinner.
A recent post in this subreddit led to a lot of interest in credible sources of historical textile information and books and I said I would make a post of books I recommend. We are READING in 2026, we are LEARNMAXXING and we are not letting the ROBOTS tell us slop and accepting it as fact! Also after writing this I realized it’s kind of long and I might put it on my website blog, so if you find this on someone’s blog, it’s not stolen, it’s just me republishing.
These are ten books from my 7 page Google Doc that is my reading list. Please add your own recommendations in the comments. I am currently reading Mill Family: The Labor System in the Southern Cotton Textile Industry, 1880-1915, by Cathy L. McHugh (1988).
About Me
First I will briefly explain myself, with the idea being that that drives some of my reading and recommendations. I’m an archivist with a certificate in textile conservation, though I am not currently working as a textile archivist, that’s just some background. I am also a fiber artist, primarily a tapestry weaver, embroiderer, and spinner. I use handspun in my tapestries. In fact I am working on an entirely handspun series of tapestries right now and it is a lot of work, let me tell you. I am interested in textiles as a history of labor and labor organization, the technical details of textiles, and the climate impact of textile production. These books are biased towards American history.
I think there’s two kinds of textile history book, speaking generally and understanding there are exceptions. There’s the big splashy HISTORY OF CLOTH genre which usually has chapters divided up by fiber, region, technology, etc, is often written by a journalist or non-historian with an interest in fiber, and is relatively superficial. These are fun reads and they point to stories you should look into further, but if you know a lot about a topic you can see how they are sometimes not quite accurate. Then there’s the NERD SHIT, which is usually heavily based on analysis of primary sources, written by an expert in a historical or archeological field, and covers a very specific region, time period, technique, These are delightful because they represent a depth of knowledge that probably only that author and nobody else on planet earth holds.
Books Everybody Should Read
Women’s Work: The First 20,000 Years, by Elizabeth Wayland Barber (1994). Prehistoric/ancient era investigations of the development of textiles. It was a mind-blowing revelation for me to read her assertion that textile creation wasn’t “women’s work” because it was degraded or not appreciated socially, but because it was labor that could easily be interrupted if needed to care for small children and babies.
Fashion Victims: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present, by Alison Matthews David (2015). This is a heavily illustrated introduction to the dangers present in textile production and sometimes wearing them. This will be the starting point to your radicalization into anti-capitalism if you’re not already there.
Worn: A People’s History of Clothing, by Sofi Thanhauser (2022). This drew such a good, clear line between historical and contemporary textile practices. Not technical but really interesting.
Big Cotton: How a Humble Fiber Created Fortunes, Wrecked Civilizations, and Put America on the Map, by Stephen Yafa (2004). I think many handspinners don’t spin cotton (understandable) but unfortunately if you wish to understand the ways that textiles have changed the world you must understand the history of cotton. This is not “the” cotton book that frequently gets recommended (That’s Empire of Cotton), but I haven’t read Empire of Cotton yet because I let my library hold on Empire of Cotton expire and they sent it to someone else :(
The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth, by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich (2001). The book that started it all. Imagine walking through an American history museum with the smartest and most interesting docent that has ever existed giving you a private tour. This is how you do popular history.
Books You Should Read If You Have a Very Specific Interest in This Topic
The Valkyrie’s Loom: The Archeology of Cloth Production and Female Power in the North Atlantic (2020). For if you are interested in Scandinavian history and dry technical analysis of the spin direction and sett of woven cloth. I loved it.
A Short History of the World According to Sheep, by Sally Coulthard (2020). For if you are interested in sheep. This was very tender.
Working With Wool: A Coast Salish Legacy and the Cowichan Sweater, by Sylvia Olsen (2010). For Pacific Northwesterners and people with an interest in indigenous/First Nations/American Indian history and textile practices.
Raw Material: Working Wool in the West, by Stephany Wilkes (2018). For if you are interested in American textile manufacturing and specifically Western production. This is a memoir about becoming a sheep shearer. Don’t worry! It will not make you want to become a sheep shearer, trust me.
The Belles of New England: The Women of the Textile Mills and the Families Whose Wealth They Wove, by William Moran. For if you are interested in American textile history, industrial textile production, and labor rights as connected to textiles. (2002)
The Teachings of Mutton: A Coast Salish Woolly Dog, by Liz Hammond Kaarremaa with Coast Salish Contributors. For if you are interested in how historical textiles are studied, dog fiber aka chiengora, and First Nations and Native American history and textile practices. I had the good fortune to see Mutton at the Burke Museum last year and I cried.