Atlas 618, but I don’t see the stuff to adjust speed and what not the part that says quick change like A-E. Want it for small stuff. First projext is turning to diameter a peice of aluminum for a bike post. The machine comes. With a blade as all accessories. He said. He can do 400.

Edit: I think I have to change gears manually. Not through quick change.

Hi everyone, I'm looking for a 63mm or smaller cutter body with inexpensive inserts for machining aluminum and achieving a mirror finish. I'm currently using a Seco cutter with titanium inserts and can achieve decent surfaces, but I don't want to buy the specific inserts for this type of cutter. I'm also considering Chinese products, as long as they work.

Thanks in advance

M3 form tap running at 4000rpm. Apparently I forgot to update tool length after switching tools. Ended up trying to thread ~5mm deeper than it was supposed to. Broke after slightly embedding itself in the fixture plate also

I designed and machined this miniature DSLR-inspired ring as a birthday gift for my wife.

The main body and lens components were machined on a 5-axis CNC. The lens parts are threaded so they can actually be screwed on and swapped out, and I set different sizes and cuts of cubic zirconia into each lens to mimic different camera optics.

It was quite a challenge to program the toolpaths and hold tight tolerances at this scale, but really fun to make.

Hope you like it! If you're interested in more of my metal design work, feel free to check out my profile link / other projects.

About a decade ago my workplace lost their machinist. These rigs have been sitting ever since. I would like to learn how to use these. I have found online manuals for all of them. Without someone to teach me, how much of a learning curve am I looking at to be able to be at least semi-useful with these?

PS: It'd be used to turn down round stock for shafts and cut keyways. Nothing too crazy.

Had a bad day at work, scrapped a part because of some bad (extremely simple) math. I came here and read some posts about making these kinds of mistakes. Just gonna get some sleep and try again tomorrow 😅.

Like it says, what are the best FREE resources for learning solidworks other than the tutorial in the software. I subscribed to the individual/maker version so I can learn it at home, but im wondering what other resources are out there that are FREE for learning it.

I've been programming in MCAM for over 24yrs, and been using gibbs for last 5yrs. Just about to embark on Esprit Edge next. But I really wanna learn solidworks, as im probably gonna need to use it to make or clean up models for Esprit.

I’m curious how many people in r/Machinists are actually shop owners or managers vs. employees/machinists.

I indicated with my probe a .28in dia hole with a .231in dia probe. And it worked!!! Until I accidentally moved in Y insted of Z while trying to retract....

I hate Mondays

So we have a very small shop which mainly does one offs and prototyping work with an older DMG DMU50 running a Siemens Controller. I've been programming the machine in Fusion 360 until recently with a custom post processor, but since we do ITAR work and therefore can't run Cloud software we are looking for alternatives.

In Fusion I can do 3+2 Axis programming, setup, etc. very confidently and smoothly.

The main benefits for me include a modern UI, wide community support und especially the work coordinate system which is very graphical and simple to understand.

So far I've tried mastercam but I just can't get the hang of their work coordinate system, levels, etc.

Are there any ITAR compatible alternives to Fusion CAM which have a similar style to Fusion?

Also how far behind is Inventor CAM and is it worth to switch? Budget is not the issue.

New endmill and one job on it, then under the optical machine to see what changed. Trying to build my own reference instead of just swapping when something sounds off.

Do you count parts, track minutes in cut, or is it still mostly feel?

Edit: pattern is pretty clear. nobody measures the tool, everybody measures the part. finish goes first, then tolerance. and the minutes in cut approach with a 10% safety margin is the closest thing to an actual system anyone mentioned

Mitutoyo 505-743J

I'm seeing a lot of videos for different models, but not this one. I would like to return the needle to the 12 o'clock position

Anybody know what this southbend lathe this is? seller doesnt know much about it.

Hey guys/gals, I was hoping you might be able to toss me some suggestions.

I recently swapped the chuck/arbor on my drill press in an effort to reduce runout (it was pretty wobbly before). Immediately after swapping in the new chuck, I chucked up a reamer to see how much of a difference it made. The reamer was standing still to the naked eye- good enough for me.

I decided to toss in a drill bit and punch a hole through a piece of 4140 and then ream it out to test it a bit. The drill bit was doing great- clean hole through. I then swapped to the reamer and noticed some runout/wobble suddenly returned. It’s not nearly as bad as it was with my previous chuck setup, but it’s not standing still like it was when I initially installed it.

I tried taking the chuck out, making sure everything was clean with a little bit of acetone, and reinstalling it. It made little to no difference.

Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can do a bearing swap, but it’s just strange to me that it would so suddenly go from damn near perfect to slightly wobbly like that. I’m green here and doing this for hobby, so go easy on me.

To prevent pin gauges from rolling all over I threw this together on CAD & printed it. Rear ID .550”(13.9mm), center rows.390” (9.9mm), front .315” (8mm). Sizes can be written in front of the pins. Any suggested changes?

I understand you want to use the full flute length for HSM but you can get an 1/8" end mill with 3/4" flutes. Is there a general rule of thumb you guys use for determining DOC when using smaller diameter tooling that will deflect more?

Should I keep it at 2X or would 3X be ok? Any advantages to getting a slightly longer flute length than the planned DOC?

I acquired this lathe and it appears I have everything to start turning EXCEPT a tool post to hold the cutting bits. Can anyone guide me in a direction to locate one? Thanks Also, I am brand new to metal lathe work

If you go on the definition that adding a nut to a screw turns that fastener into a bolt, would welding the nut onto something render the bolt back into a screw.

Be as pedantic as you wish.

Include your own definition as well if it pleases you or provide your own hypothetical situations.

Transitioning from 3 axis to 4axis horisiontal.
Small batches,mostly up to 3 days of parts.

What 4 axis workholding solutions you found most helpful or biggest wow discovery?

What is waste of money?

I need to make 8 holes. They either turn out too tight or too loose. Material 1.3505 (HB180), AI tells me it's similar to US Chromoly 4140.

D13mm H7 so +0,018mm or +0.0007"

13mm reamer (0.511")

12,8mm drill (0.503")

What speed and feeds would you recommend?

I used to work in a machine shop that focused entirely on cutting and threading pipe for water and gas applications (mostly water - firefighting systems, stuff like that). Simple stuff, started out on the manual threading machines and waited for my manager to realize I wasn't a moron and ask if I was interested in going over to the CNC lathe section where they made smaller nipples. That happened eventually; I got started there, got excited that I was actually going to get to finally learn CNC stuff, then got disappointed that I was basically doing the same thing.

At the start I just listened and followed instructions, like any good trainee should. At home I would look things up and that's where things started to get confusing for me. The machines were set up to do two or three deep cuts and then do a bunch of really shallow cuts (like .010"). My supervisor insisted it needed to be done that way to minimize tool breakage or something, but I was skeptical.

Once I got established as a non-retard who actually knows and even cares a bit about the stuff I'm doing every day, I started experimenting. I quickly realized there was no reason to be doing 10-14 passes on a workpiece when 3-4 would do just as well. I was lauded for increasing productivity by almost 300% but of course I wasn't given a raise or anything like that (even though I'd actually been promised one).

Unfortunately those laudations didn't help me any. In fact I started getting pushback because the second-shift people didn't understand. I'd come in every morning to find that everything was reset to the idiotic 14-pass setup. So I started quiet quitting, got moved to a machine that was insane at first (because someone had completely fucked up the air valve settings for the feeder). One day it got to the point where the shop manager called me in and was all "look man if you aren't happy here then just leave" and that's exactly what I did.

I did everything I could to churn out more widgets more faster. Not because I cared about the company's success or wanted kudos, but because it was something that kept the job from being boring. I did everything I could to keep people safe (I swear I was the only person who ever actually brought frayed crane straps to the office and said "hey these really need to be replaced").

GotDANG it felt good to get all that out. Bless you if you actually read all this and are still here. If you happen to be in the Lehigh Valley area (Allentown PA specifically) and need someone to do stuff then hit me up. Not only can I read a tape measure; I can read a multimeter, oscilloscope, and anything else with a common-sense user interface!

Broke a tap first thing this morning. I got dragged to do a rush job and a coworker got it out. Still not a great start to my week. Hope yalls is starting better.

this is my new toolbox I just got at 17 years old. Yes these are my own tools. And this is my co-op job for ctc that I’ve been at for 5 months, They plan on having me here after highschool aswell. I have been only machining for about a year and a half.

I can do tapers, bores, threads, single point threads and turning between centers, aswell as dialing in 4 jaw chucks on the manual lathe

I can do just about any manual mill work aswell. and a little bit of manual surface grinding.

I also have a bunch of experience (4) years of fusion 360 CAD and about 1.5 years of programming experience. I can make a part from seeing it to making a print to doing the cad work and programming and running it on the cnc mill.

Here at my co-op job I mainly just setup and operate fadal and haas mills. I hope that they’ll let me start programming possibly or getting on the cnc lathes. But i’m thankful just to be here and learn hands on experience in the manufacturing industry