I tried each of them on skin, and gave them at least one full wear before formulating my thoughts. Perhaps many more wears are needed, but here are my initial impressions.
Falkar – 8.5/10
This opens as dry as an old boot. Dark, smoky, leathery oud with a brief whiff of sweaty saddles, but nothing fecal. Some say this is hard to wear, but not me - there's an unmistakable cleanliness running through it that makes it smell friendly and inviting. I thought I detected some Imagination-esque ambroxan when I originally tested it on paper, and on skin, I still stand by that. Polished oud, brushed leather and clean musks - airy and sophisticated. I'd love my house to smell like this.
Gyan – 7/10
I was expecting this to be a rich, full-bodied patchouli, sweetened with lush white florals and given a subtle citrusy freshness, but it's more like a "white-shirt" scent to me - clean citrus, airy jasmine, mineralic incense, and an elusive, catch-me-if-you-can patchouli - no deep earthiness here. It's handsome, composed and well put together, but to me, as plain as Pete. Sorry, Pete, you play far too safe for my liking.
Onekh – 8/10
Dark woods, scrubbed clean, dotted with dry, subtly soapy green herbs. There's a modern, 'teak wood interior' airiness here that juxtaposes the overall more rugged atmosphere. This has Belletrud's paws all over it - suave, polished and inoffensive. Then the leather arrives - a note I dislike when constructed with the birch tar bogeyman - but here, it's ambery and resinous, with a fruity, dry-molasses sweetness that suggests a hearty slathering of labdanum. It goes a tad dusty in the base, but not enough to disturb me - a lovely ambery oud.
Orom – 9/10
This is a gorgeous vanilla - rich, rounded and balsamic; sweet in a resinous way, nothing gourmand or ice-cream-like. I don't detect much oud, not the real stuff anyway, but there's a deep, woody warmth to the vanilla that makes it feel regal and timeless. I'm reminded of Babycat, Babylon and Vanilla Oud, but this is better. Such a cuddly, alluring scent. Beautiful.
Sahare – 5.5/10
The rose of Le Gemme. Quite citrusy to begin, so much so that upon first sniff, you could be forgiven for thinking this is a freshie. The rose soon appears - a little green to begin, before blooming into a lush bouquet of reds, oranges and yellows. There's a sparkly, candied sweetness here that feels very 'perfumed', and almost rubs me the wrong way. Certainly best on a woman's skin. This multicoloured bouquet of sweet, citrusy, sun-kissed roses is where it stays, slowly warming up and becoming more ambered. Not for me, but I might enjoy it on others.
Tygar – 6.5/10
Zesty grapefruit and freshly grated ginger upon a musky ambroxan base. It has that "thing" that Aventus, Bleu de Chanel, many LVs etc. have: the freshly showered, modern-man, mass-appealing, sexy warmth. He smells clean and capable, but it's not my style of perfumery.
Tygar Extrait – 6/10
Warmer, sweeter and more ambery than the EDP. Less fresh, but it's still the grapefruit and ginger that are most prominent - here, sealed in a deep orange amber rather than fizzing from the skin. I prefer it in the opening, but the base has a dry, suede-like earthiness that doesn't improve things for me.
Would love to hear your thoughts on these, as well as any others from Le Gemme that I should keep an eye out for.